When Fashion Faces a Fork in the Road: Protecting Bangladesh’s Homegrown Industry

Bangladesh’s fashion industry has grown from hand-stitched embroidery to a billion-dollar lifestyle market—but foreign entrants and shifting consumer habits now put its fragile ecosystem at risk. This Op-Ed examines why timing, policy, and mindful support matter more than ever.

By Sabera Anwar

The recent opening of a Pakistani fashion outlet in Dhaka has sparked debate among consumers and local designers alike. Initially, I chose to remain silent—partly because of illness, and partly because it increasingly feels that we, as consumers, fail to truly value what is made at home. Yet many have urged me to write, not to inflame emotions, but to raise awareness.

Since 2015, Bangladesh has gradually built a culture where locally made and designer fashion gained preference over imported clothing from neighboring countries. This shift did not happen overnight. It was the result of years of conscious effort by designers, entrepreneurs, artisans, and consumers who chose to support homegrown creativity.

The movement created far more than fashion. It generated jobs, nurtured new designers, and built entire value chains—from weavers and dyers to embroiderers, pattern makers, photographers, stylists, and retail staff. Most importantly, it helped preserve traditional hand embroidery techniques and artisanal skills that risk disappearing if the next generation cannot see a future in them.

The Perils of Open Doors

The past year has been especially brutal. Political turmoil and economic uncertainty have affected nearly every sector, and local fashion is no exception. Many brands are barely surviving, pinning their hopes on Eid, Pohela Boishakh, and the wedding season, which collectively generate 60–70% of annual revenue. These few windows determine whether businesses live or die.

It is precisely at this fragile moment that we must ask difficult questions.

For years, direct imports of Pakistani brands were restricted. Instead, replicas of Pakistani regular wear were produced locally, supporting digital embroidery units and small factories across Bangladesh. While the ethics of replicas are debatable, the economic benefit was clear: the money circulated locally, paying workers, technicians, and suppliers.

Now, if high-end foreign brands are allowed to operate freely, profits will be repatriated abroad, while local designers—already struggling—will be pushed closer to extinction. This is not a competition on equal footing. It is survival versus scale.

Yes, Bangladesh believes in a free market. And yes, protectionism cannot be permanent. But no industry can thrive if exposed too early, too fast, and without safeguards.

outcomes of pure “free market competition,” but deliberate policy measures aimed at giving traditional industries a fighting chance (The Times of India).

In contrast, Bangladesh’s fashion designers and brands still struggle with limited policy frameworks, scarce institutional support, and minimal government marketing, even though our textile industry is globally strong as a garment exporter.

So yes, you cannot expect Bangladeshi brands to “just compete” on equal footing when the ecosystem—design education, market support, cultural branding, and government incentives—is still underdeveloped compared to those long-established industries.

Our neighbouring countries understood this well. For over a decade, authorities nurtured local fashion before opening doors wider, giving brands time to mature, scale, and become export-ready. Bangladesh’s local fashion industry deserves the same chance.

The question, then, is not whether Bangladesh should open its doors, but how and when. Openness without preparation is not progress—it is neglect. If we believe local fashion is worth preserving, the time to protect, nurture, and strategically prepare it is now, before the doors open too wide to close.

Choices Over Trends

Supporting local fashion is not about nationalism or shutting doors. It is about economic sense, cultural preservation, and long-term sustainability. If we lose our artisans today, no number of foreign labels will bring them back tomorrow.

By considering timing, policy safeguards, and mindful consumer behavior, Bangladesh can ensure that its local fashion industry thrives—preserving craft, creating jobs, and sustaining an ecosystem that foreign labels alone cannot replicate.

Sidebar: Bangladesh’s Fashion Ecosystem at a Glance

Economic Impact

• Garment exports: USD 45+ billion annually (world’s second largest exporter)
• Local fashion & lifestyle segment: Estimated USD 1 billion market, growing
• Cottage, micro, small, and medium fashion sector: Employs over 20 million people; contributes ~6–7% of GDP when linked value chains are considered

Artisans & Skills Preserved

• Traditional hand embroidery, weaving, and dyeing techniques
• Jobs for embroiderers, pattern makers, photographers, stylists, and retail staff
• Supports small-scale digital embroidery and micro-factories

Consumer Spending Trends

• Hundreds of millions spent annually in neighboring countries’ markets, particularly during Eid, weddings, and New Year
• Opportunity: Local purchasing could strengthen artisan clusters and expand domestic brands

Key Risk Points

• Fragile brands rely on a few seasonal peaks (Eid, Pohela Boishakh, wedding season) for 60–70% of annual revenue
• Unrestricted entry of foreign high-end brands may redirect profits abroad
• Early exposure without safeguards could endanger emerging designers and artisanal networks

Takeaway:
Every purchase matters. Supporting local fashion preserves craft, sustains jobs, and ensures Bangladesh’s creative ecosystem thrives in the long term.

Note: The views expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not necessarily reflect the position of the magazine or its editorial board. The publication is not responsible for any opinions or claims made by the writer.